Off-The-Rack , Made-To-Measure, Custom-Made, Bespoke?

One of the confusing things about suits is how they are described (or, sometimes, incorrectly described). Let’s clear this up.

A suit may be described as:

1. Off-the-rack (or ready-to-wear)
2. Made-to-measure
3. Custom-made
4. Bespoke

Categories 1, 2 and 4 are usually correctly described, but a suit which is in category 3, and  might rightly be another term for a suit in category 4, is sometimes really a suit in category 2. We’ll go a little closer into the categories, with some of the pros and cons of each.

1. OFF-THE-RACK SUITS
If you go into a shop and choose a suit from a row of ready-made suits, you’re buying, literally, off the rack

Pros

• The suit is ready made. You can see exactly what it looks like.
• You can try it on, right on the spot.
• A pe壯陽藥
  rson with you can also see it on the spot and give you their opinion.
• There’s no guesswork. You can see the design, fabric, colour and pattern of the suit.
• You can try on several suits to see which one works best for you and which one you prefer.
• There’s no waiting. There are no repeat visits (unless you have adjustments made, which is rarely done, but often advisable).

Off-the-rack suits are usually the cheapest option, but prices can vary considerably. Some so-called designer labels can have eye-watering prices. Nearly all so-called designer label suits are mass produced, in the same way that other off-the-rack suits are mass produced.

Cons

• The suit you’re buying was mass made. It wasn’t made for you.
• The suit often comes in only one or two measurements – the chest and waist.
• The sleeves of the suit jacket are likely to be too long for real style.
• The trousers may be too long and need adjustment – at your expense.
• The armholes at the top of the sleeve (at the shoulder) will almost certainly be too large.

With an off-the-rack suit you see exactly what you’re getting, and this is what you’ll get, even if you might have preferred something a little different e.g. a thinner lapel or slightly different pattern.

For the man looking for extra style, the cons of an off-the-rack suit mean that he may look to a made-to-measure suit for a better fit and more individuality.

2. MADE- TO-MEASURE SUITS

The made-to-measure suit is between an off-the-rack suit and a bespoke suit. It has elements of both. The made-to-measure suit is like an off-the-rack suit because it is made from a ‘block’, which is mass produced. But it is then adjusted to suit the particular shape and preferences of the customer. This makes it more individualistic than an off-the-rack suit.

A made-to-measure suit gives more opportunity for personal fit and style than a traditional suit, but a little less scope for individual styling and detail than a bespoke suit.

Pros

• A made-to-measure suit has more scope for personalised fitting than an off-the-rack suit.
• There is more opportunity for personal style and detail than an off-the-rack suit.
• Although a made-to-measure suit is usually more expensive than an off-the-rack suit, this is not necessarily the case, particularly if the off-the-rack suit needs alterations.
• A made-to-measure suit is likely to be less expensive than a bespoke suit.

Cons

• As noted above, a made-to-measure suit may be more expensive than an off-the-rack suit, but often this is not the case.
• Buying a made-to-measure suit will require some imagination.
• The made-to-measure suit offers less scope for individual fit and details than a bespoke suit.
• Some construction details in bespoke suits can be superior.

3. CUSTOM-MADE SUITS

Traditionally the term ‘custom-made’ was simply an alternative for ‘ bespoke.’ The idea is that the suit is made from scratch for the particular customer.

In more recent times, some suppliers of made-to-measure suits have described their suits as ‘custom-made’; they shouldn’t. A real custom-made suit is a bespoke suit.

4. BESPOKE SUITS

The bespoke suit is usually regarded as the zenith of suits. The term ‘bespoke’ comes from the word ‘bespeak’. At the tailor’s a piece of fabric would ‘be spoken for’ a particular customer  (i.e. reserved and set aside for that customer). The fabric would then be cut and fitted, over several fittings with the customer. Each suit is unique.

Pros

• The bespoke suit is usually the finest and the best fitting suit.
• Bespoke tailors are generally the most knowledgeable, and more knowledgeable than, say, assistants in department stores.
• Bespoke tailors usually use very good fabrics.
• The choice for the customer is highest with bespoke suits. He can choose the type of suit, the fabric, colour, pattern and small details such as width of lapels and angle of pockets.
• Although usually the most expensive, a bespoke suit may not be so expensive compared to some ‘designer’ labels.

Cons

• It’s normally the most expensive.
• It usually requires most fittings.
• The joy of individuality in a bespoke suit also requires a leap of faith and an element of guesswork on the part of the customer.
• While most bespoke tailors are very good, tailors are like any other professional. There are some who are superb and some who are not quite so.

Hopefully all this has given you some more understanding and confidence about suits. To really get on top of suits, click here for my book:

Purchase ‘How to Be A Stylish Man in Suits’

Till next time,

Have a stylish day,

Andrew